tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6874541367337995440.post6354964793817580473..comments2024-03-21T00:14:33.311-07:00Comments on Ski Theory: Pre Season Race TuningAlex Wigleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12246494774748523303noreply@blogger.comBlogger6125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6874541367337995440.post-78529990794784931432009-11-14T10:42:27.254-08:002009-11-14T10:42:27.254-08:00Long time, hence the beer, and loud music.Long time, hence the beer, and loud music.Alex Wigleyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12246494774748523303noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6874541367337995440.post-23873827283325977522009-11-14T07:31:09.076-08:002009-11-14T07:31:09.076-08:00Gottit. Saw this info confirmed elsewhere too. Ya,...Gottit. Saw this info confirmed elsewhere too. Ya, I did two hot waxes (with soft hydrocarbon), then a soft base wax, a cold wax, and two fluoro C8 waxes (all temp). Should be solid for each pair coming out of the closet (so to speak).<br /><br />F*ck it takes a long time to do that.tVnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6874541367337995440.post-46912518517755363532009-11-14T00:01:45.349-08:002009-11-14T00:01:45.349-08:00Here's the thing about cold wax. Cold wax is ...Here's the thing about cold wax. Cold wax is there to protect your base. When you go skiing on a really cold day and you get that furry base, that is caused from the cold "burning" your base. Cold wax has a small amount of plastic in it, and/or other compounds to make it harder. By protecting your base it is making you go faster and not sticking to the snow. <br /><br />So when you are waxing. Go through the steps of generic waxing your skis, then add the cold weather wax. After that you can begin adding more medium fluoro waxes successively. You don't have to change and move into colder waxes as you have already waxed with the right temperature. The added fluoro waxes will just be a bit of a booster, but won't blow you out of the water, as it is so cold.<br /><br />Warm wax = soft, doesn't last as long<br />Cold wax = hard, lasts longer, but used in warm conditions clog up your structure and slow you down.Alex Wigleyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12246494774748523303noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6874541367337995440.post-45731103852595078992009-11-13T18:53:40.959-08:002009-11-13T18:53:40.959-08:00Alex, you say that going from low to medium fluro ...Alex, you say that going from low to medium fluro is the opposite of downhill. So for my downhill skis, I should apply a cold wax first (after the hot wax), then successive waxes should move on to the desired temperature setting?tVhttp://fugitive.quadrantcrossing.orgnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6874541367337995440.post-11275169930264397672009-11-02T14:18:34.758-08:002009-11-02T14:18:34.758-08:00Pardon the way I've set up the article, I'...Pardon the way I've set up the article, I'll have to change my editing. It is fine to use hydrocarbon waxes as a base wax, as they are usually a generic wax. You can actually buy specific base prep waxes, like SKS, Swix, and Dominator.Alex Wigleyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12246494774748523303noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6874541367337995440.post-44495244254704343722009-11-02T09:07:22.560-08:002009-11-02T09:07:22.560-08:00you mention that fluorocarbon and hyrdrocarbon wax...you mention that fluorocarbon and hyrdrocarbon waxes may actually damage a new base that doesn't yet have wax in it. i understand how that is true for fuoro waxes, but i'm curious how that's true for hydrocarbons. i was under the impression that hydrocarbon waxes are synonymous with the "generic" waxes that you suggest to use for the first waxing applications. thanks for the education!JChttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18233447754712095381noreply@blogger.com